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Not surprisingly this makes many climbers nervous, as we rely on such gear in life-critical situations regularly.Д¬CH is an 'old-school' company, meaning it is a small garage operation rather than the modern corporation that many climbing companies have become. An Alien, a model of spring-loaded camming device made by CCH (a very small company located in Wyoming) broke when loaded during a fall. I also apply light stresses on the finger using a 1-gallon milk jug, which has been slowly filled over the last week as the finger grows stronger.ДЄ major topic of distraction away from my finger during my time in Santa Fe has been a recent report of climbing gear failure. My current rehab program consists mostly of rest, though it also includes two sets of Lewis reaction (cold vasodilation) icing each day. In many ways, it occurred at a good time, since I spent a few days hiking in Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks (pictures soon, and strong recommendations for both but especially Zion), and then came home to Santa Fe for a break. The strain is relatively mild, and I am rehabbing it at my parents' house in Santa Fe.

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My best guess is that upon missing the right hand hold, my left hand over-squeezed its hold and full body weight on that squeeze strained the tendon. I'm not entirely certain how the strain happened-I made a big throw with my right hand, missed the hold, and fell to the ground. I strained a flexor tendon in my left ring finger on Kill by Number, a roof boulder problem in Joe's Valley, UT. But I still think the disabled list analogy applies, since I can't do my job due to an injury.

On those days I typically climb from 9-7 it's too cold to stretch before 9 and gets dark (and cold) by 8. And while I stretch on bouldering days, when I only climb for 5-6 hours, it's much more difficult to do on trad climbing days. It's hard to ice sore joints when you lack refrigeration. To be entirely honest, I lost some of the performance focus while on the road. Now, for the first time, I'm on the disabled list. During my time at home before the trip I tried to act as an athlete, stretching more regularly, icing my sore fingers and hip, reading about performance measures, and tracking my climbing output. I spend each day going out and climbing in an effort to improve. Such a thought is not entirely off the mark while I'm not earning any money (I'm nowhere near a sufficiently good climber to do so), it is effectively my 'job'. Play both local videos and online stream.When I decided to take a climbing road trip, I began thinking of myself as an semi-professional athlete.

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